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Cape Verde travel guide

Cape Verde sits 500 kilometres off Senegal and behaves like its own small world: Portuguese-Creole, musical, drought-shaped and calm. The eastern islands of Sal and Boa Vista are flat, sandy and built for beach and kite holidays; the western and southern islands are steep, green in their valleys and made for walking. Praia holds the government and Cidade Velha the first European colonial town in the tropics; Mindelo is the music city; Fogo is a live volcano with wine growing in its crater. Inter-island connections are the whole planning problem, so choose two or three islands and book the hops before the hotels.

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Map of Cape Verde showing Praia & Cidade Velha, Sal, Boa Vista, Mindelo & São Vicente, Santo Antão, Fogo
6 local guides · Google Maps · select the map to see them

Quick facts about Cape Verde

Best time:
November–June for dry, breezy weather; February–April for the calmest hiking and kite season
Places to visit:
6 worked-out local guides
Visa:
EU and many other passports are visa-free for up to 30 days with online pre-registration and an airport security tax; confirm current rules
Currency:
Cape Verdean escudo ($ / CVE)
Start in:
Sal or Praia for international flights; Sal for a beach-first trip, Praia for history and the southern islands
Trip length:
10–14 days
Language:
Portuguese is official; Kriolu is spoken everywhere, and English and French work in tourism on Sal and Boa Vista
Time zone:
CVT (UTC−1) nationwide, no daylight saving
Explore Cape Verde with Viamente

Who it's for

Is Cape Verde right for your trip?

Every country is somebody's favourite. The honest question is whether it is yours, and for this trip.

This is your trip if…

  • You want serious volcanic and ridge hiking in a safe, easy-going country.
  • Live morna, coladeira and funaná matter as much as beaches.
  • You accept that ferries and small planes set the itinerary, not the other way round.
  • You want Atlantic wind for kiting or surfing and quiet nights afterwards.

Think twice if…

  • You expect lush tropical greenery; most islands are arid outside their valleys.
  • You want to see every island in a week.
  • You need calm swimming water everywhere; Atlantic currents and shore break are real.
  • You want luxury hotel infrastructure beyond the Sal and Boa Vista resorts.

Best time to visit

When is the best time to visit Cape Verde?

November–June for dry, breezy weather; February–April for the calmest hiking and kite season. The islands are dry almost all year, with a short, unreliable rainy season from August to October that greens Santo Antão and Santiago and occasionally brings storms from the Atlantic hurricane belt. November to June is the settled season: trade winds strongest from December to March, which suits kiters and cools the beaches, and calmer, warmer air from April. The harmattan can bring dust haze between December and February. Sea temperature is lowest in March and highest in October.

  1. Windy dry season

    December–March

    Best

    Strong trade winds, dust haze some days, cool nights and the peak for kiting, Carnival and Mindelo's music.

  2. Calm dry season

    April–June

    Best

    Winds ease, seas settle for boat trips and diving, and Santo Antão's paths are dry underfoot.

  3. Hot pre-rains

    July

    Good

    Rising heat and humidity, few visitors and turtle nesting beginning on Boa Vista and Sal.

  4. Short rains

    August–October

    Mixed

    Occasional heavy storms, green ribeiras and the warmest sea; flights and ferries can be disrupted by Atlantic systems.

Climate · monthly normals

PraiaDaily high – low, °CPrecipitation, mm
0°10°20°30°40°30°19°05010090 mmJFMAMJJASONDJanuary: 25° / 20° · 4 mmFebruary: 25° / 19° · 2 mmMarch: 26° / 20° · 1 mmApril: 26° / 20° · 0 mmMay: 27° / 21° · 0 mmJune: 28° / 22° · 0 mmJuly: 29° / 23° · 5 mmAugust: 30° / 24° · 60 mmSeptember: 30° / 24° · 90 mmOctober: 30° / 24° · 30 mmNovember: 28° / 22° · 6 mmDecember: 26° / 21° · 5 mm

Warm and dry all year with a short late-summer rainy season and a moderating sea breeze.

For contrast

Chã das Caldeiras (Fogo)Daily high – low, °CPrecipitation, mm
0°10°20°30°24°9°05010080 mmJFMAMJJASONDJanuary: 19° / 9° · 5 mmFebruary: 19° / 9° · 3 mmMarch: 20° / 9° · 2 mmApril: 21° / 10° · 1 mmMay: 22° / 11° · 1 mmJune: 23° / 13° · 1 mmJuly: 24° / 14° · 10 mmAugust: 24° / 15° · 60 mmSeptember: 24° / 15° · 80 mmOctober: 23° / 14° · 30 mmNovember: 22° / 12° · 8 mmDecember: 20° / 10° · 6 mm

The volcano crater at 1,700 metres is cool, dry and often cloud-topped, with cold nights in winter.

Festivals and events

What is worth planning around?

Dates a plan should either aim for or steer clear of. Both are useful; the second saves more money.

  1. February or March, before Lent

    Carnaval de Mindelo

    Mindelo, São Vicente

    Brazilian-style parades, samba schools and street bands make this the archipelago's biggest party, with São Nicolau's older Carnival a quieter alternative.

    Book Mindelo rooms and inter-island flights months ahead; the ferry from Santo Antão fills.

  2. April

    Kriol Jazz Festival

    Praia

    Cape Verdean and African jazz and Creole music on open-air stages in the capital's Plateau.

  3. August, full-moon weekend

    Festival da Baía das Gatas

    Baía das Gatas, São Vicente

    A three-night beach music festival draws bands from across the islands and the diaspora to a lagoon on the island's east coast.

  4. Around 24 June

    Festa de São João

    Santo Antão and São Vicente

    Drumming, colá dances and processions mark St John's Day in Porto Novo, Ribeira Grande and Mindelo.

Where to go

Where should you go in Cape Verde?

The places that earn their nights, most important first, with how long each deserves. Nobody needs all of them on one trip.

City and local guides

6 worked-out stops
Map of Cape Verde showing Praia & Cidade Velha, Sal, Boa Vista, Mindelo & São Vicente, Santo Antão, Fogo
6 local guides · Google Maps

Map numbers match the local guide cards.

  1. Praia & Cidade Velha

    West Africa

    01
    city2–3 days

    Praia's Plateau holds the markets, museums and the country's government; fifteen kilometres west, Cidade Velha's fort, ruined cathedral and pillory are the UNESCO-listed origin of the islands and the Atlantic trade.

    Best time: October–April

    Explore Praia & Cidade Velha
  2. Sal

    West Africa

    02
    travel base3–4 days

    Sal is flat, windy and the arrival point for most international flights. Santa Maria's long beach, Kite Beach, the salt pans at Pedra de Lume and the Buracona pool make an easy opening or closing chapter.

    Best time: October–April

    Explore Sal
  3. Boa Vista

    West Africa

    03
    travel base2–4 days

    Boa Vista is the desert island: Sahara-like dunes at Viana, the long Chaves and Santa Monica beaches, loggerhead turtle nesting in summer and Sal Rei's small town. Roads are sand and the resorts are self-contained.

    Best time: October–April

    Explore Boa Vista
  4. Mindelo & São Vicente

    West Africa

    04
    city2–3 days

    Mindelo is the cultural capital: Cesária Évora's home port, a colonial harbour front, live morna every night and a serious Carnival. Monte Verde, Calhau and Baía das Gatas fill the island days.

    Best time: October–April

    Explore Mindelo & São Vicente
  5. Santo Antão

    West Africa

    05
    travel base3–5 days

    An hour's ferry from Mindelo, Santo Antão is the walking island: the Cova crater to Paúl valley descent, the Ponta do Sol coast path to Cruzinha, and villages set in terraced valleys of sugar cane and grogue stills.

    Best time: December–April, adjusted for the coast

    Explore Santo Antão
  6. Fogo

    West Africa

    06
    travel base2–3 days

    Pico do Fogo rises 2,829 metres from a caldera where people live, farm and make wine among the 2014 lava. São Filipe's sobrado houses and black-sand coast are the base; the summit climb is a hard, rewarding morning.

    Best time: October–April

    Explore Fogo

Things to do

What should you do in Cape Verde?

Not a bucket list — the handful of things that make this country this country, with the timing catch that stops people doing them well.

  1. 01

    Climb Pico do Fogo

    Chã das Caldeiras

    A four-hour ascent on cinder with a local guide, then a twenty-minute scree run down; start at dawn and sleep in the crater the night before.

  2. 02

    Walk Cova to Paúl

    Santo Antão

    The classic descent from the crater rim through terraced sugar cane to the coast is the islands' finest day walk; arrange a pick-up at the bottom.

  3. 03

    Hear morna in Mindelo

    Mindelo

    Small restaurants and bars host live music most nights; ask for the evening's programme rather than settling for the hotel band.

  4. 04

    Stand in Cidade Velha's pillory square

    Santiago

    The pelourinho, the ruined cathedral and the Real Fortaleza above tell the founding story of the Atlantic slave economy in one small town.

  5. 05

    Watch turtles nest on Boa Vista

    Ervatão and the east coast

    From June to October, join a licensed conservation night walk rather than driving the beaches, which crushes nests.

  6. 06

    Kite or watch Kite Beach

    Sal

    Ponta Preta and Kite Beach carry steady winter trade winds; lessons and rentals are among the best-run in the Atlantic.

How to get around

How do you get around Cape Verde?

Bestfly and TICV fly small aircraft between Sal, Boa Vista, Santiago, São Vicente, Fogo and Maio, with schedules that change and cancel; book early and leave a buffer before international flights. The Mindelo–Porto Novo ferry to Santo Antão is the one reliable sea link; other ferries are irregular. On each island, aluguer shared minibuses and hired drivers do the rest.

Inter-island flights

Small propeller aircraft link the main islands in under an hour; capacity is limited, schedules shift and a missed hop can strand you, so pad connections.

Rule of thumb: Different island groups → fly, and leave a night's buffer before the international departure.

Mindelo–Porto Novo and CV Interilhas

The São Vicente–Santo Antão crossing runs several times daily and is the backbone of a northern trip; longer inter-island ferries are slow, rough and prone to cancellation.

Hired driver or rental

A driver with a pick-up is the way to reach trailheads on Santo Antão and the Fogo crater; self-drive works on Sal, Boa Vista and Santiago with care on cobbled and sand roads.

Aluguer minibuses

Shared Toyota Hiace minibuses leave when full and connect towns cheaply; they are the local transport on every island and stop running by early evening.

Passes and cards, honestly

  • There is no multi-island transport pass; each flight and ferry is ticketed separately, and open-jaw international flights via Sal and Praia save backtracking.
  • Fogo's natural park and the Cidade Velha fort charge small entries; volcano guides are compulsory and paid separately.

Travel tips

What should you know before you go?

The things locals assume you know. Most travellers learn them by getting one wrong on day two.

Kriolu is the real language
Portuguese is official but the islands speak Kriolu; a few greetings open doors, and the diaspora in Lisbon, Boston and Rotterdam shapes families and music.
Morabeza is the temperament
The unhurried, welcoming manner is a point of pride. Match it: rushing service or bargaining hard reads as rude.
Music is not background
Morna, coladeira, funaná and batuku each carry regional and class histories; Cesária Évora's Mindelo and the batuku groups of Santiago are living traditions.
Drought and emigration shaped everything
Famines in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries drove emigration; more Cape Verdeans live abroad than at home, and remittances build the houses you see.
Slavery built the first town
Cidade Velha was a slave-trade entrepôt for centuries; the pillory square is a memorial site, not a photo backdrop.

Travel basics

Visa, money, SIM cards and more

The boring section, which is why it is the one people skip and then regret at the airport.

visa

Visa-free with pre-registration

EU, UK, US and many others enter visa-free for 30 days; register on the EASE platform before arrival and pay the airport security tax unless your airline includes it. A yellow fever certificate applies only to arrivals from risk countries.

money

Escudos, euros and patchy ATMs

The escudo is pegged to the euro and euros are widely accepted on Sal and Boa Vista; ATMs exist in every island capital but fail and empty, so carry cash for Santo Antão and Fogo. Cards work in resorts and larger restaurants.

connectivity

CVMóvel or Unitel T+ SIM

Data is affordable and fine in towns; Santo Antão's valleys and Fogo's crater are patchy. Hotel Wi-Fi is usually adequate for messaging.

plugs

Type C and F sockets

Cape Verde uses 220 V with European two-pin sockets; a standard EU plug fits everywhere.

safety

Low crime, real ocean risk

Petty theft in Praia and Mindelo after dark is the main concern; the bigger hazard is the sea, with strong currents and shore break on many beaches. Use a guide on the volcano and check ferry weather cancellations.

health

No malaria, strong sun

The islands are malaria-free apart from rare seasonal cases on Santiago; carry sun protection, rehydrate on hikes, drink bottled water and note that hospitals outside Praia and Mindelo are basic.

Trip costs

How much does a trip to Cape Verde cost?

A mid-range trip usually needs about €60–€130 per person per day, before long-haul flights. Cape Verde costs more than mainland West Africa because almost everything is imported and inter-island transport is priced per hop. Sal and Boa Vista run on European package rates; Santo Antão, Fogo and Santiago are cheaper with pensões, cachupa lunches and aluguer minibuses. Flights between islands are the main fixed cost.

Shoestring

€€40–60

per person / day

Stay
Pensão or guesthouse
Food
Cachupa, grilled fish and market snacks
Transport
Aluguer minibuses and ferries

Works well on Santiago, Santo Antão and Fogo; Sal and Boa Vista are harder.

Mid-range

€€60–130

per person / day

Stay
Small hotel or boutique guesthouse
Food
Restaurants and live-music dinners
Transport
Inter-island flights, ferries and hired drivers

The practical level for a three- or four-island route.

Comfortable

€€160–300

per person / day

Stay
Resort on Sal or Boa Vista, top boutique stays elsewhere
Food
Hotel dining and guided food experiences
Transport
All flights, private transfers and boat charters

Buys time: private transfers replace waiting for the aluguer to fill.

Sample itineraries

Starting points, not scripts

Each of these is a real request you could hand to Menta as written. Change the people, the month and the pace; the structure will hold.

North: music and mountains

8 days
  1. Mindelo
  2. Santo Antão
  3. Mindelo

Fly to São Vicente for Mindelo's music, then ferry to Santo Antão for four days of ridge and valley walking.

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Santiago and Fogo

9 days
  1. Praia
  2. Cidade Velha
  3. Tarrafal
  4. São Filipe
  5. Chã das Caldeiras
  6. Praia

The historic south: the capital, the first colonial town, Santiago's north coast and the volcano climb from the crater village.

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Four-island archipelago

14 days
  1. Sal
  2. Praia
  3. Fogo
  4. Mindelo
  5. Santo Antão
  6. Sal

Beach arrival on Sal, history and volcano in the south, then the northern music and hiking islands with flight buffers built in.

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Common questions

Quick answers about travel in Cape Verde

Short answers to the questions people ask before they book. Use the full guide for the detail and trade-offs.

When is the best time to visit Cape Verde?
November–June for dry, breezy weather; February–April for the calmest hiking and kite season. The islands are dry almost all year, with a short, unreliable rainy season from August to October that greens Santo Antão and Santiago and occasionally brings storms from the Atlantic hurricane belt. November to June is the settled season: trade winds strongest from December to March, which suits kiters and cools the beaches, and calmer, warmer air from April. The harmattan can bring dust haze between December and February. Sea temperature is lowest in March and highest in October.
How much does a trip to Cape Verde cost?
Plan about €60–€130 per person per day for a mid-range trip, before long-haul flights. Cape Verde costs more than mainland West Africa because almost everything is imported and inter-island transport is priced per hop. Sal and Boa Vista run on European package rates; Santo Antão, Fogo and Santiago are cheaper with pensões, cachupa lunches and aluguer minibuses. Flights between islands are the main fixed cost.
How do you get around Cape Verde?
Bestfly and TICV fly small aircraft between Sal, Boa Vista, Santiago, São Vicente, Fogo and Maio, with schedules that change and cancel; book early and leave a buffer before international flights. The Mindelo–Porto Novo ferry to Santo Antão is the one reliable sea link; other ferries are irregular. On each island, aluguer shared minibuses and hired drivers do the rest.

More destinations

Where else?

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Guide last reviewed 2026-09. Check visa rules against your own passport before you book.